Fun with Cauliflower

A favorite hack in the Paleo community is to make rice using cauliflower. Its white like rice and has a similar texture so it can be an excellent substitute to serve alongside the rest of your grain-free meal. Using a box grater or the grater attachment of your food processor is a simple way to turn cauliflower into a rice lookalike.

Just think of all that you can do with a head of cauliflower. Its sturdy texture gives it enough umph to be turned into a steak. Puree it, add some liquid, and you'd think you had mashed potatoes. Pulse it in the processor and you may notice that it looks more like cous cous than long grain. If we have cous cous, than we can make tabbouleh.

Go grab the grape leaves. This Middle Eastern staple salad, traditionally made with bulgur, is loaded with fresh herbs, citrus, and the wonder-spice za'atar. Za'atar is a blend made with sesame seeds, sumac, salt, and sometimes thyme or basil. In the summer months, try this recipe the more traditional way with tomatoes and cucumbers. In the winter months, go with dried fruits and maybe even (pine) nuts. Try a mixture of dried fruits like apricots, figs, or currants. Preserved lemons would also be a great addition.

Cauliflower Tabbouleh

adapted from Aaron Chambers' recipe

1 head cauliflower, cut into florets

1 small shallot

1 lemon, zested with a microplane and juice

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1/4 cup golden raisins, chopped

2 tsp za'atar

5 tblsp olive oil

2 tblsps each chopped cilantro, parsley, mint

Working in batches, pulse the cauliflower florets in a food processor until the consistency of cous cous. Something like this:

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a skillet and cook the shallot and garlic until translucent. Add the cauliflower and cook for several minutes until it has softened and lost its pungent, raw odor. Add more oil, if necessary, to keep it from sticking. Season with salt and pepper.

In a large bowl combine the raisins and lemon zest. Add the cauliflower mixture to the bowl and stir to combine. Fold in the fresh herbs.

In a small bowl whisk the juice of half the lemon, the za'atar, and the remaining olive oil. Pour this over the cauliflower mixture and combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Chill the tabbouleh in the refrigerator for several hours before serving to let the flavors meld. Fluff with a fork and serve alongside fish or lamb.

The Spice Must Flow: Saffron

Whenever I think of Dune, I think of The Spice. In my mind, that spice has always been saffron. A spice prized for centuries and whose scarcity make it seem like a forbidden luxury. It is the stigma of the crocus flower—tiny bright orange threads—with the unique flavor of grass and honey. It is a spice that has been prized and revered through history, yet its short supply and expense keep it from the pantry of many home chefs. A mere quarter of an ounce of the best quality can cost over $100.

Saffron is commonly seen in specialty stores and some local grocery stores. Unfortunately, a lot of what you see on those shelves is fake—swapped out with a safflower impostor. For years I wondered what all the fuss was about with saffron, because I had been duped by the cheap copycats I was using. Choose a saffron that you know is the real deal by doing some research. I go with Penzey's who offers three varieties at reasonable prices.

Although, saffron may not have the power to fold space or alter consciousness like The Spice of Dune, it may have another power all its own. The ancient Sumerians used it medicinally for remedies and magic potions. Hocus pocus aside, saffron is loaded with the antioxidant carotenoids like lycopene and β-carotene. There are even some studies out there saying saffron has anti-cancer, anti-depressant, and tumor suppressant properties. The Sumerians must have been on to something...

But what do you do with the stuff? Well there are saffron buns, whose paleo-friendly alternatives may come at a later date. Saffron is also a main ingredient in paella. I like my saffron paired with a flavor from the sea—with fresh mussels.

I don't have the luxury of splurging on the good stuff, but I would imagine that if you were so lucky to have the best, you could decrease the amount of saffron used in this recipe without forgoing flavor.

Mussels with Saffron Coconut Cream Sauce and Chorizo

2 lbs mussels, rinsed and cleaned

1 small onion, sliced and halved

3 cloves of garlic, minced

3 oz chorizo (cured, not raw), small dice

rounded 1/2 tsp (1/2 g) saffron threads

1/4 cup white wine (broth works here too)

3/4 cup coconut milk

2 tblsp parsley, chopped

salt and pepper, to taste

Soak the saffron threads in a tablespoon of tepid water.

Heat a couple tablespoons of oil in a high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion, chorizo, and garlic and cook until the onion just starts to brown and the chorizo is a bit crispy, but stir so not to burn the garlic. Add the saffron and cook for about 1 minute or until fragrant. Season with salt and pepper as you go. Pour in the wine to deglaze and bring back to a boil. When the liquid is reduced by half, add the coconut milk and stir to combine. Carefully toss in the mussels and put a lid on the pan for about 5 minutes. You will known when the mussels are done when they willingly open their shells and their flesh comes off easily from the shell. Throw out any that don't open.

Remove the mussels to a bowl using a slotted spoon. Cook the sauce down for a couple minutes or to your desired consistency, then add the parsley and check for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the mussels and serve immediately.

Step 1: Eat a Better Breakfast

Its the time of year when everyone starts thinking of making a fresh start. New Year's resolutions almost always entail losing weight and eating better. My best advice to you this year is to not make a resolution. Resolutions are made to be broken so instead, decide to be more mindful about what you eat. In the process you will find yourself making healthier eating choices and losing weight in the process without the stress of a real diet or the guilt of breaking a promise to yourself.

Why wait until January 1 to get a fresh start? Start today by taking a simple first action. Change one meal out of the day – eat a healthier breakfast. Instead of starting the day with a bowl of oatmeal or a bagel, opt for foods that will give you energy throughout the entire morning. Our bodies preferred fuels are fats so fear them not! Change up your breakfast routine by simply eating high fat, high protein choices like eggs and bacon. Our hunter-gather ancestors weren't reaching for the Cheerios upon waking, they needed nutrient dense foods like nuts, berries, and meat from the previous night's hunt.

Try this one small step and see how different you feel after a week or two. Are you still getting hungry hours before your lunch break? Then eat a bigger breakfast but keep it grain- and sugar-free. Notice how much more awake you feel in the morning compared to the muffin morning. Skip the freshly squeezed orange juice and go for black coffee or tea instead. Lose the sugary yogurt and choose plain, Greek-style that you add your own berries and nuts to.

If you're feeling adventurous you can even make pancakes. You won't find these pancakes on any Grand Slam menu but they are so simple to whip together you can have a stack any day of the week. I've tried various flours and combinations to make a Paleo pancake but using nut butter seems to work the best. Keep the pancakes on the small side because they will be hard to flip if they are too large. With a little practice you'll get them just right.

Paleo Pancakes

adapted from Mark's Daily Apple

2 very ripe bananas

2 heaping tblsp almond butter (or cashew)

1 egg

pinch of salt

tsp vanilla

In a bowl mash the bananas to a paste with the back of a fork. Stir in the almond butter, egg, salt, and vanilla then mix well to combine. Stir until a batter comes together and there are no lumps. Pulsing the ingredients in a food processor would work just as well.

Heat a large skillet with coconut oil on medium/high heat. Add about 1/4 cup of the batter at a time. Flip after about 2-3 minutes (you won't see the bubble-up like normal pancakes) and cook an additional 2-3 minutes. Serve hot with melted butter, berries, walnuts, or coconut syrup.

Green Sauce

This Summer in Barcelona, we spent many nights nibbling on salty anchovies chased with glass after glass of bubbly cava. That may have been perfect for hot nights in Spain, but snacking on anchovy filets back home in NYC seems far less appealing. Don't get me wrong, I have a slight fondness for the way the soft, tiny bones crumble under my teeth. And how the oily flesh melts on the tongue. Anchovies, however, can overpower, leaving you sated after just one bite.

These tiny fish are near the top of the list when it comes to their anti-inflammatory, omega-3 fatty acid content. Rich in the polyunsaturated fats eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), anchovies are an excellent addition to your diet. EPA and DHA have been shown to be excellent for inflammatory conditions, heart health, nervous tissue health, to name a few. The downside here is eating enough of those salty, fishy morsels. Let's look at how these fishes compare:

	Source	EPA + DHA (g)
Atlantic Salmon	Farmed	2.15
Herring	Atlantic	2.01
Anchovy	European	1.45
Halibut	Atlantic/Pacific	0.47
Flounder and Sole	Atlantic/Pacific	0.5

http://www.dhaomega3.org/Overview/Dietary-Sources-of-Omega-3-Fatty-Acids

Regardless of how accurate, these numbers give us a rough estimate of what to expect when we eat fish. From this table, you probably think salmon is a tastier option than anchovies. You'd have to eat a lot of anchovies to get the same nutrients as salmon. However, unlike other fish, anchovies are incredibly versatile in the kitchen. They are easily mixed into sauces and melt when they hit a hot pan. Drizzle an omega-3 rich sauce over that salmon and get a real dose of EPA and DHA.

I like to keep a small jar of anchovies on hand just in case I want to make salsa verde. This salsa verde, not to be confused with similar green sauces of French and Latin America origin, is the rustic Italian version. Try it over steaks, white fish, grilled veggies, or seared scallops. This sauce is a nutritional powerhouse; with anti-inflammatory garlic, anchovies, and olive oil, probiotic, pickled caper berries and gherkins, plus the antioxidant benefit of fresh herbs. If it weren't so potent, salsa verde might be a good addition to your green smoothie. On second thought, don't try that one at home.

Basic Salsa Verde

2 cloves of garlic

3 cornichons

3 anchovy filets

1 tblsp capers, drained

2 tsp dijon mustard

3 tsp red wine vinegar

handful of mint

handful of parsley

olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

Combine the first six ingredients in a food processor and blend. Add the fresh herbs then blend again while streaming the olive oil into the top of the processor to form an emulsion. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes about 1/2 cup.

I never measure ingredients when I make this. Feel free to add more of this or less of that until it tastes right and has the desired consistency.

omelet souffle + a diatribe on molecular gastronomy

Transglutaminase. Carrageenan. Xanthan gum. Isomalt. Calcium gluconate. Any of these sound familiar to you? These aren't part of a chemists laboratory, but staple items in top kitchens that use molecular gastronomy methods. None of these would have been part of the vocabulary of our hunter-gather ancestors, but they may open doors to new and fun ways to play with food.

Molecular gastronomy has been scrutinized by many as unnatural and not part of a healthy diet. As much as I love to sit down to a fancy tasting menu, I have to agree with this sentiment to some extent. Many of the food additives that chefs use in their kitchens have questionable health effects. Carrageenan, for example, can cause intestinal tumors in lab animals and is used on an industrial level to de-ice planes. Then there is the magic of transglutaminase which can glue scrap meat together making it indistinguishable from a prime cut.

These ingredients certainly do seem unnatural, and may pose a problem for those who have intestinal sensitivity issues, such as true celiac and Crohn's disease. Some of these additives do promote inflammation in the gut and may be very detrimental at certain concentrations. That's the problem with this issue, little is known about how much of these food additives can be tolerated. Certainly we wouldn't consume enough carrageenan to de-ice a plane but will the few grams contained in my pine-flavored foam irritate my stomach?

These and other food additives are of particular interest because I like to think of how I could use them to reinvigorate my sugar-free, grain-free diet. Chef Wylie Dufresne used transglutaminase to make pasta from shrimp—now that sounds Paleo-friendly. But can we call these ingredients food? Some of them are derived from natural sources like algae and bacteria. Somehow I don't think that when Michael Pollan said, “eat real food” he was thinking about food additives made from red algae.

Until I can figure out how to make pasta from pure shrimp, I will steer clear of using these additives in my kitchen. My dining adventures in the city will certainly call upon consuming some foams and gels here and there but these instances are seldom. In the meantime we can still play with our food by thinking about how to handle ingredients in unconventional ways. Use the techniques learned from the basics and expand them in new and creative ways. This is part of the philosophy of molecular gastronomy after all.

Let's begin with the simple omelet. Omelets are an easy way to turn eggs into something more exciting. Unfortunately, omelets aren't usually exciting. But if you make an omelet using the same techniques used to make a souffle, then you might have something more extraordinary for breakfast: the omelet souffle. This great idea comes from food scientists Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot of Ideas in Food. It may sound complicated for breakfast, but if you have all the ingredients at the ready, and work quickly, you can whip this up in less than 10 minutes.

Omelet Souffle

an experiment from Ideas in Food

3 eggs

scant ½ cup grated cheese (aged cheeses like cheddar, gouda, gruyere)

2-3 tblsp fresh herbs

1.5 tblsp butter (or oil of your choice)

Separate the eggs—put the yolks in a glass bowl and the whites in another glass bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Add a pinch of salt to the yolks and whisk them together. Whip the whites until soft peaks form.

Melt the butter in a 8-inch, oven safe skillet. If you use a larger skillet, like I did, the souffle won't rise quite as dramatically but will still turn out excellent.

Add 1/3 of the whites to the yolks and whisk together. Next, gently fold the yolk mixture into the remaining whites with a spatula until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared skillet and sprinkle all over with cheese. Place under the broiler for 3-4 minutes until the souffle has risen and the cheese has browned. Carefully remove the souffle to a plate and sprinkle with fresh herbs. Serve immediately.

The Best Brussel Sprouts of Your Life

If your Thanksgiving dinners are anything like the ones in my family, there will be more than one. Getting big families all together can be difficult, so Thanksgiving meals can easily turn into round 2 or even round 3. If there is another round in store for you this holiday weekend, please make these brussel sprouts. I think they will be the best you've ever eaten.

Many in the Paleo community shy away from dairy. Animal dairy was not part of the diet of our hunter-gather ancestors so it should be avoided. This recipe includes dairy but I'm sure it would still be excellent using coconut oil and coconut milk in place of the butter and cream if you prefer. I haven't tried this variation, so let me know how it turns out.

The problem with dairy extends beyond simply lactose, but lies in its content of lectins. Lectins refer to a group of proteins found in grains, legumes, and animal products. Lectins actually occur in all plant and animal foods but to a varying degrees. Grains and legumes appear to be highest in lectin content. Lectins cause problems when consumed in abundance because of their ability to damage the gut lining. This takes place because lectins are not broken down in normal digestion. They are large molecules that can stick to other proteins. The body responds to them in defense—causing an immune response and creating antibodies against them.

There is still a lot to learn about lectins and their affect on our digestive systems. We can't avoid lectins completely in the diet, but we can avoid those that we know are problematic. Wheat germ agglutinin, found in grains, is a well studied lectin with major gut damage potential. Soybean agglutinin is another that has been found to damage the small intestinal lining.

I am not completely opposed to including some dairy in the diet, however. Unless there is a clinical lactose intolerance problem, dairy consumption provides a large amount of healthy saturated fats and is low in inflammatory omega-6 fats. When available, opt for grass-fed butter and raw grass-fed milk. These are rich in conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) and antioxidants.

Fermented dairy is also a great option to promote healthy gut ecology. As to be expected, a healthy, balanced gut will make sensitivity to dairy less likely. Look for grass-fed keffir or yogurts that are low in added sugar.

For more details on lectins check out Mark's take at: http://www.marksdailyapple.com/lectins

Brussel Sprouts Braised in Cream

as seen in Molly Stevens' All About Braising

1 lb brussel sprouts, trimmed and halved

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup of heavy cream

juice of half a lemon

4 slices of bacon, chopped

salt and pepper

Cook the bacon then drain on paper towels and set aside. Trim the sprouts by cutting off the bottom stems and removing some of the outer leaves. Cut the sprouts in half or large ones into fourths. In a dutch oven or other heavy lidded pot, melt the butter until foamy. Add the sprouts and cook for several minutes until they are a little browned in places. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the cream. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover for 20-25 minutes, or until the sprouts are easily pierced with a fork. Add the lemon juice and chopped bacon and stir to combine. Adjust for seasoning and let simmer for another minute or two to allow the sauce to thicken. Bacon can easily be swapped out for walnuts or hazelnuts.

Black Garlic for Black Friday

While others are rhapsodizing over the best way to prepare turkey, I'm here to talk to you about black garlic. Black garlic is in fact the white garlic we know and love, only fermented. It is popular in some Asian styles of cooking but seems to be all the rage in fancy kitchens across the country. You can purchase it online but it is also available at Kalustyan's here in NYC.

In addition to the nutritional properties of regular garlic, black garlic offers the added bonus of fermentation. Just like sauerkraut and kimchee before it, fermented foods are full of probiotic critters that help balance gut ecology. Gut ecology is key to good health and many gut pathogens have been implicated in disease and chronic conditions like autoimmune disease, obesity, digestive system disorders, and even cancers.

Unfortunately our gut ecology is easily forgotten about day to day. We fill our bellies with foods that can damage the lining of our guts (grains and legumes) or with foods that promote the growth of harmful bugs (sugars). Perhaps worst of all, we quickly seek out antibiotics at the first sign of a sniffle, and in the process wipe out all gut bugs; good and bad.

Making fermented foods part of your regular diet is key to optimizing gut ecology. Even if you already take a probiotic supplement, eating fermented foods should be routine. Since the digestive tract is the gateway for pathogens to enter your body, keeping this system healthy is vital for proper immune function and good health. You may be surprised that by simply improving gut bacteria, you can drastically affect your health. Beyond the digestive system problems you might associate with poor gut health, symptoms as diverse as fatigue, weight gain, skin problems, depression, and autoimmune-type conditions may be exacerbated by imbalance of gut flora. For example, the feel good hormone serotonin is produced in large part in the intestines. Also, the mucus that healthy intestines secrete is loaded with antibodies that bolster the immune system.

Imagine this: the surface area of the digestive tract is estimated to be the size of a football field. The size of a football field...that's a lot of bugs! A football field full of bacteria helping you digest your food and protecting you from harmful pathogens. If the digestive team is wiped out, you won't absorb nutrients from foods much less those supplements. If the defensive team is wiped out, you're more susceptible to get sick.

So how do you cook with the stuff? Black garlic. The flavor is both sweet and savory. It has the subtle sweetness of roasted garlic with a slight pungency from fermentation that satisfies those umami receptors. It is at the same time earthy and meaty. Best of all there's no lingering garlic breath.

Black garlic can be a little hard to work with. Its not firm like traditional cloves that easily mince under your knife. Instead the cloves are soft and sticky—making chopping a challenge. I find that sliding the edge of your knife over the cloves to mash them to a paste works best. A mortar and pestle would be another great way to mash the cloves into something usable.

Black Garlic Crusted Steaks

2 6-8 oz filet mignon (or your favorite cut)

4-5 large cloves of black garlic

Preheat the oven to 450. Trim your steaks and pat dry with paper towels. Allow them to come to near room temperature while the oven preheats. Mash the cloves of garlic using the edge of your knife until you form a thick, uniform paste.

Season the steaks with generous amounts of salt and pepper. Heat a heavy skillet (cast iron is great) with 2-3 tablespoons of coconut oil or olive oil. Once the pan is very hot when you put your hand over it, add the steaks. Sear one side without touching the steaks for 4-5 minutes depending on thickness. Flip the steaks, quickly spread the black garlic over the seared side then place the skillet into the hot oven to finish cooking for another 4-5 minutes. Check for doneness, let the steaks rest a few minutes, then enjoy.

Black Truffle Eggs

Eggs are a staple in the diet of those who follow a Paleo or Slow (Low) Carb lifestyle. Loading up on protein is important for weight loss. Eggs are a quick and easy source. Down 5 or 6 in the morning to rev up your metabolism. Add more still after your workout to help with muscle repair. You'd be amazed at the egg cartons that accumulate in my recycle bin.

But wait aren't eggs bad for you? Eggs get a bad wrap because of their cholesterol content. However, the research just isn't there to support that eating eggs affects blood cholesterol levels. Cholesterol has become one of those demonized terms in popular culture and medicine. This fear exists despite the fact that cholesterol is a necessary molecule for synthesizing hormones, cell membranes, vitamin D, and maintaining nerve health and function. We rely on our livers to regulate cholesterol levels as our body needs it. There is little evidence that high cholesterol diets contribute to cardiovascular disease or similar conditions. That's right high cholesterol has little to do with increased risk of cardiovascular disease. This notion is far from new and revolutionary, in fact its starting to become a mainstream idea that I will reference again and again on this blog. To avoid a long diatribe I will direct you to this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCBMV6d9HSg&feature=related

With the big push in nutrition and public health to eat 'real food,' it doesn't get more real than eggs. Eggs are loaded with vitamins and minerals that add to their protein benefits. Their fat content is primarily polyunsaturated so it is important to choose omega-3 eggs which are usually from chickens fed flax. Load up on omega-3 eggs for their anti-inflammatory benefit. Just because the carton says vegetarian fed chickens don't assume they were fed flax or omega-3 enriched grain. Be sure to pick ones that specifically say omega-3 or list their content of EPA and DHA on the label.

I like eggs—I really do. But no matter how you cook them or whip them up, eggs can be boring. I'm always trying to think up news ways to keep eggs interesting. Eggs with hot sauce. Eggs fried in truffle butter. Eggs with tomato. Eggs with fresh herbs.

The latest wave of egg innovation in my kitchen is eggs with truffle salt. Hard-boiled eggs get lightly dipped in black truffle salt which makes eating 2 or 3... or 6 much easier to swallow. This flavored salt is tasty! And it has the added bonus of giving me a dose of sea salt in the morning when I really need it.

If you have chronic fatigue syndrome or fibromyalgia have you ever checked your blood pressure first thing in the morning? Does it read low? (Mine runs 80/60) This phenomenon is known as orthostatic hypotension. Have you ever felt dizzy upon standing too quickly? This is a similar experience as orthostatic hypotension but often blood pressure can take far longer to normalize. Just a small amount of salt first thing in the morning may give you the tiny bump in blood pressure that will get your head out of the clouds.

The variety of flavored salts is staggering. Explore the many options that Fusion has to offer on their website. Can you imagine espresso flavored salt on your next steak? Or vanilla salt on top of caramels? Ok, that one isn't Paleo but we can cheat right? I want to try them all.

Food Speak 2.0

Things are different now. I live in New York City and its hard to miss the energy and inspiration that hits you in the face when you walk down its streets. Here I will share some of my food adventures in this beautiful city but mostly I want to share what comes from my kitchen.

You see, I eat a whole lot differently now. I used to believe that I could eat whatever I wanted as long as it was in moderation. Then I realized that that idea is a dangerously oversimplified view of nutrition and health. Instead I have found a way to eat what my body prefers – a way for me to stay healthy and keep my Chronic Fatigue Syndrome in check. Some people call it an anti-inflammatory diet, others call it Primal or Paleolithic and they are all correct. The idea is to eat the foods that our bodies evolved to eat, and to avoid foods that can potentially cause damage to our digestive systems, metabolism, and every other biological system. This is a diet of self-experimentation where you learn to become attuned to how what you put in your mouth affects your body. I hope I can bring that understanding to you through these pages.

Eating this way isn't difficult. Eliminating sugar, grains, legumes, and dairy from the diet sounds harder than it is. Don't believe me? I think I will convince you in time. However, given my self taught skills in the kitchen and my dining experience at some of New York's great restaurants, I'm here to make eating Primal fancier than it needs to be. I'll never be content with meat and steamed veggies on the plate every night of the week. So allow me to get creative, turn some of the classics into Primal masterpieces, and push the boundary on what our Paleolithic ancestors were capable of in the kitchen. Let's eat more like Thomas Keller and less like Cro-Magnon. Grab a (pitch)fork and enjoy!